Edith Palmer’s Country Inn

IMG_7216

The final Nevada-area location that I stalked while visiting my grandmother in Reno last month was Edith Palmer’s Country Inn in Virginia City – the spot where my girl, Miss Marilyn Monroe, stayed for a short time while filming her last completed movie, 1961’s The Misfits.  I had actually stalked the exterior of the historic property once before, while vacationing at my grandmother’s back in June of 2008, and had also written a short blog post about it.  As fate would have it, the inn’s super-nice owner, Leisa Findley, happened to see that post and wrote a comment in which she mentioned that if I ever wanted to re-stalk the place, she would give me a personal tour of the interior.  Well, as you can imagine, I read Leisa’s words and had been absolutely itching to collect on her kind offer ever since.  Because I usually visit my grandmother at Christmastime, though, when driving conditions from Sparks, where she lives, to Virginia City are a bit unfavorable, I was not able to do so until my most recent trip to the Silver State this past July.

[ad]

P1000333 P1000334

Edith Palmer’s Country Inn was originally built in 1863 as a private home/cider factory for a businessman and cider/vinegar manufacturer named Ellis Morton.  In 1948, an award-winning chef named Edith Palmer purchased the premises with the intention of using it as her residence.  Edith, who was a member of the prestigious French gastronomic society Chaine des Rotisseurs, would host frequent dinner parties in the former cider factory area of the property (pictured above) and eventually decided to turn her abode into an inn, so that those guests who did not want to drive home after eating her culinary feasts would have a place to stay.  Word of mouth traveled quickly and Edith’s meals became so sought after that she wound up converting the factory into a public restaurant which she dubbed ”The Cider Factory”.  It did not take long for the Hollywood elite to come a-knockin’ on the door of Edith’s ultra-private little haven of an inn and its ambrosial eatery. Just a few of the luminaries who stayed or dined at the property include Liberace, Polly Bergen (who played grandmother Kate Allen on fave show Commander in Chief), Michael Landon, Lorne Greene, Dan Blocker, Pernell Roberts, Phil and Alice Harris, Yvonne De Carlo, Robert Goulet, and Dinah Shore.  In 2000, Leisa and her husband, Pat, purchased the inn, which had fallen into serious disrepair, from Edith’s heirs and and immediately set about a three-year renovation process during which they lovingly restored the place to its former grandeur.  Today, Edith Palmer’s Country Inn is comprised of three separate Victorian-style houses – the Edith Palmer House, the Silver Street House, and the Storey House – which feature eight guest rooms and two suites.

IMG_7092

As luck would have it, the inn was vacant during our visit and Leisa was kind enough to take us through pretty much every square inch of the property.  She began our tour in the Edith Palmer House, where we were shown the sitting room area;

IMG_7086 IMG_7089

IMG_7085 IMG_7087

the Maggie Belle Room, which was named in honor of Pat’s grandmother;

IMG_7126 IMG_7130

the Edith Room;

IMG_7161

the Evelyn Room, which was named after Leisa’s mother;

IMG_7120 IMG_7134

and the Marilyn Room, which was where the starlet stayed for a brief time while The Misfits was being filmed in nearby Dayton, Nevada.

IMG_7098 IMG_7100

IMG_7102 IMG_7104

As you can see above, the Marilyn Room is an absolutely adorable little space which is tucked away in a quiet corner of the inn’s second floor and features peaked ceilings, gabled windows, and a sitting area.

IMG_7119 IMG_7108

It was in the Marilyn Room that Leisa showed me what I had been absolutely dying to see for more than three years – the inscription MM wrote to Edith during her stay at the historic property.

IMG_7113

The inscription reads, “To Edith Palmer and her oasis in the desert and warm hospitality – may I always be a welcome guest.  Marilyn Monroe.”  Apparently, when Leisa and Pat purchased the property, Marilyn’s autograph had become extremely weathered and faded, so they took it took a restorer who made two copies of the print in which the ink was darkened.  One of the copies currently hangs in the inn’s Marilyn Room and the other in Leisa’s main office.  The original is safely tucked away somewhere, far from sunlight and possible sticky fingers.  And even though it was a copy, I cannot tell you how exciting it was for me to see that inscription in person.  SO INCREDIBLY COOL!

P1000336 P1000351

P1000355 P1000367

Next, Leisa took us to the famed Cider Factory, which is no longer in use as a restaurant, but is currently only available as a wedding and special events venue.  The front room of the Cider House is still set up much the way it was in Edith’s day and features an adorable little bar that one former waitress dubbed “The Biggest Little Bar in Nevada”.

P1000361 P1000364

P1000357 P1000358

P1000346 P1000362

The walls of the front room are almost completely covered with autographed headshots and messages written to Edith on pieces of paper placemats, as had become the Cider Factory custom during Edith’s day.

P1000347 P1000348

P1000339 P1000359

As you can imagine, I was absolutely drooling while reading the many inscriptions.

P1000356

I was most excited to see the inscription from Lee Strasberg, Marilyn’s beloved acting coach and founder of the Lee Strasberg Theatre and Film Institute, who accompanied the star to Virginia City.  Lee’s daughter Susan also signed the placemat.

IMG_7196 IMG_7194

The back room of the former restaurant, which housed the original cider factory, is a beautiful rock-walled space that seems straight out of another era.

P1000368P1000369

The room features a HUGE, floor-to-ceiling fireplace that was constructed completely out of rocks from the nearby hills.

IMG_7137 IMG_7138

IMG_7139 IMG_7140

We also got to walk through the inn’s quaint garden area, which, as legend has it, was where Edith first met Marilyn upon the star’s arrival in Virginia City.  All in all, Leisa spent over an hour showing us her lovely inn and regaling us with tales of its storied past.  My grandma, my dad, and I all absolutely fell in love with the place and my dad is already talking about booking a room there for a few days next summer.  I told him to count me in, so long as he reserves the Marilyn Room.  Winking smile

Until next time, Happy Stalking!  Smile

Stalk It: Edith Palmer’s Country Inn is located at 416 South B Street in Virginia City, Nevada.  You can visit the Inn’s official website here.

The Virginia Street Bridge from “The Misfits”

IMG_7013

Another Marilyn Monroe location that I dragged my dad and grandmother out to stalk while visiting Reno, Nevada last month was the famed Virginia Street Bridge, aka the “Bridge of Sighs”, which was featured in the 1961 film The MisfitsAs I mentioned in last Friday’s post about the Washoe Country Courthouse, during the first half of the Twentieth Century, Reno was known as “the Divorce Capital of the World” and the “Great Divide” due to its lenient divorce laws.  People from all over the United States would temporarily relocate to the “Biggest Little City in the World” in order to be granted a quickie divorce, or to get “the six week cure” as divorces were dubbed in 1931 when residency laws in Reno were shortened to a scant six weeks.  According to tradition, after receiving their final dissolution of marriage decree, which was also called “being Reno-vated”, newly-single female divorcees would leave the courthouse and immediately head one block north to the Virginia Street Bridge to toss their wedding rings into the Truckee River as a symbol of celebrating their new-found freedom.

[ad]

ScreenShot655 ScreenShot656

ScreenShot657 ScreenShot660

In The Misfits, immediately after being granted a divorce at the Washoe County Courthouse, Roslyn Taber (aka Marilyn Monroe) and her friend Isabelle Steers (aka Thelma Ritter) head to the Virginia Street Bridge where Isabelle tries to convince Roslyn to toss her ring into the Truckee River by saying, “If you throw in your ring, you’ll never get another divorce.” Contrary to what has been reported on countless tourism websites and in numerous filming location books, Roslyn does not in fact throw her ring into the river, but instead walks off to grab a drink at the supposed Harrahs Club (filming actually took place at the now-defunct Mapes Hotel Casino) with the band still safely encircling her finger. In the scene, Marilyn and Thelma stood on the southwest corner of the Virginia Street Bridge, facing the Sierra Street Bridge, which is pictured in the background of the above screen captures.

IMG_7016

That same view is pictured above.

P1000306 P1000309

It is widely debated as to how the ring-tossing tradition began and some historians even believe the whole thing was quite simply a publicity stunt dreamed up by Reno officials hoping to lure divorce-seekers – and their money – into the city.  The first known account of the Virginia Street Bridge ring-fling was depicted in a 1927 informational pamphlet titled “Reno! It Won’t Be Long Now: Ninety Days and Freedom”.  The custom became more widely known when Cornelius Vanderbilt, Jr., who came to the Silver State in 1927 in order to obtain a divorce, penned his 1929 premiere novel Reno, in which one of his main characters throws his wedding band into the Truckee River.  In October of 1930, a movie based on Vanderbilt’s book was released and the rest, as they say, is history.  And while numerous historians were apt to dismiss the tradition as myth, the ring-toss lore became inexorably woven into the pages of Reno’s history and in 1976, three fortune-seeking citizens who were searching for coins in the Truckee River wound up excavating more than 400 wedding bands from the area directly underneath the Virginia Street Bridge, forever quieting the legend’s many naysayers.

IMG_6987 IMG_7010

IMG_6996 IMG_6997

No matter how the tradition began, whether a legitimate custom dreamed up by newly-minted divorcees or a marketing tool created by city officials, the Virginia Street Bridge is an ABSOLUTELY gorgeous place to visit and I cannot more highly recommend stalking it!  The structure that stands today was originally built in 1905 by San-Francisco-area architect John B. Leonard.  Amazingly enough, the span was actually the fifth to be constructed in that particular spot linking Virginia Street above the Truckee River.  The first bridge was engineered in 1860 by a man named Charles W. Fuller and was known, appropriately, as “Fuller’s Crossing”.  The wooden and log construction could not withstand the strength of the Truckee, though, and was sadly washed away in a flood in 1861.  Four replacements followed, the last of which is the Beaux-Arts-style structure pictured above.

IMG_6986 P1000310

IMG_7004 P1000311

IMG_7007 IMG_7001

As you can see above, the area surrounding the Virginia Street Bridge, which includes a “River Walk”, a public park, flowing waterfalls, and outdoor restaurants, is truly breathtaking and my dad absolutely fell in love with the place.  While there, he kept enthusing, “I cannot believe I never would have known this area existed if not for you and your stalking!”  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – stalking is the VERY best way to discover off-the-beaten-path, not-in-a-guidebook type spots.  So I guess I should be saying, “Thank you, Marilyn!” for this one!

IMG_7003

While there, I just had to make my grandma – who at 86 years old was still up for walking miles around Downtown Reno to do some Misfits stalking with me – pose for a pic.  The woman absolutely rocks my world and I can only hope that I am in half as good a shape as she is when I enter my golden years!  I love you, Grandma!

Until next time, Happy Stalking!  Smile

The Virginia Street Bridge - The Misfits

Stalk It: The Virginia Street Bridge spans the Truckee River on South Virginia Street, in between Island Avenue and Truckee River Lane, in Downtown Reno, Nevada.  In The Misfits, Marilyn Monroe and Thelma Ritter stood at the southwest corner of the bridge, near where Island Avenue meets South Virginia Street, in the area depicted with a pink circle in the above aerial view.

The Washoe County Courthouse from “The Misfits”

IMG_7024

As promised, while visiting my grandmother in Reno last month, I did indeed bring along a copy of The Misfits on DVD and we did indeed watch it.  Prior to gathering around her television set, my grandma informed me that she had actually seen The Misfits once before, back in 1961 when it first came out in theatres.  How incredibly cool is that!  When I asked her if she had enjoyed it, she said “No, not particularly.”  Ha!  My grandmother has never been one to mince words.  Winking smile She told me that the movie was a bit too depressing for her taste and that the horse-wrangling scenes seriously disturbed her.  Now, having seen the flick myself, I can say that her analysis was spot on.  The Misfits was seriously depressing and I had to fast-forward through each and every one of the scenes involving horse-wrangling.  I must say, though, that it was, as always, thoroughly enjoyable to see my girl Marilyn Monroe onscreen in what many consider to be her finest performance.  Every time MM would enter a scene, my mom, who watched the film with us, would say, “God, she was beautiful!”  And it is so true!  The camera certainly loved Marilyn and she was absolutely luminous in The Misfits, which, as fate would have it, was the last picture the starlet ever completed.

[ad]

IMG_7019 IMG_7021

IMG_7023 IMG_7034

A very brief, but important scene from The Misfits, which was filmed almost in its entirety in the Silver State, takes place at the Washoe County Courthouse in Downtown Reno, a building which is still in use to this day.  So I, of course, just had to drag my dad and my grandma out to stalk the place while we were in town. (My mom, who had just had back surgery, decided to sit this one out.)  The absolutely beautiful, neo-classical-style courthouse was originally designed in 1911 by Frederic DeLongchamps, in what was to be the prolific Nevada-area architect’s very first solo commission.  The stunning structure, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986, cost $250,000 to construct and features a copper dome, towering Corinthian columns, a large portico, terrazzo tile flooring, and a stained glass ceiling.

IMG_7035

Sadly though, as you can see above, no photography whatsoever is allowed inside of the building.  According to the Yahoo! Travel website, more marriage licenses have been given out at the Washoe County Courthouse than at any other courthouse of its size in the entire country. Consequently, due to Reno’s lenient divorce laws (the city’s waiting period for a divorce in the early 1900s was only six months; in 1927 that waiting period was shortened to three months; and in 1931 it was shortened yet again to a scant six weeks!), countless marriages have ended within the courthouse walls, as well, resulting in the city being dubbed “The Divorce Capital of the World”.  In the 1930s alone over 33,000 divorces were granted at the historic courthouse, which is, I am guessing, how The Misfits came to be filmed there.

ScreenShot636 ScreenShot635

In The Misfits, Guido (aka Eli Wallach, whom my sharp-as-a-tack, 86-year-old grandmother immediately recognized as Arthur Abbot from fave movie The Holiday), drives Roslyn Taber (aka Marilyn Monroe) and her friend Isabelle Steers (aka Thelma Ritter) to the Washoe County Courthouse so that Roslyn can be granted a – you guessed it – divorce.  Guido drops the two women off on the northeast corner of South Virginia Street and Court Street in the scene, just across the road from the courthouse, which you can see in the background in the two screen captures pictured above.

ScreenShot638 ScreenShot637

ScreenShot641 ScreenShot640

Roslyn and Isabelle then cross South Virginia Street and head to the courthouse, where they run into Roslyn’s soon-to-be ex-husband, Raymond Taber (aka Kevin McCarthy), and have a brief confrontation with him on the front steps.  I find it absolutely amazing that the courthouse not only still looks exactly the same today as it did in 1961 when The Misfits was filmed, but that the place is still in use almost a full century after its inception. SO INCREDIBLY COOL!

IMG_7037

While stalking the courthouse, I was under the mistaken assumption that Marilyn had walked up the north side of the front steps in The Misfits and I had my dad take a photograph of me posing there.  It was not until I got home and re-watched the scene that I realized that Marilyn had actually walked up the south side of the steps.  Ugh, I am such a blonde sometimes!  Ah well, I guess I will just have to go back and re-stalk the place during my next visit to Reno!

Until next time, Happy Stalking!  Smile

Stalk It: The official address of the Washoe County Courthouse from The Misfits is 75 Court Street in Downtown Reno, but the front of the building and the area that appeared in the movie is actually located around the corner at 117 South Virginia Street.