My Guide to Palm Springs – IAMNOTASTALKER

September 27, 2019September 27, 2019

My Guide to Palm Springs – See/Do/Shop

With 365 days of sunshine a year and a plethora of gorgeous lodgings, Palm Springs is the perfect vacation venue to sit around the pool and do nothing. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t a wide array of things to do while in town. Below is a list of my favorite local sites to see, activities to experience, and spots to shop.

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1. Robolights (1077 East Granvia Valmonte, Palm Springs) – Easily the most unique attraction the desert has to offer, Robolights is a massive immersive art installation located on the grounds of a private residence in the tony Movie Colony neighborhood. The brainchild of artist Kenny Irwin, who as a youngster began building robot displays in the yard of his family’s home using trash and scrap materials, the exhibition has since grown to encompass the entire two-acre plot of land the pad sits on. Christmas in theme, the site (which boasts over 9 million twinkle lights!) is only open to the public from November through December but has become something of a staple for locals no matter what month. Left intact year-round and visible from the streets that surround it, even during the daylight hours of the off-season, it’s a spot that would make Clark W. Griswold jealous! Though Robolights is said to be heading to Detroit this December before being installed at a new permanent location in Desert Hot Springs in 2020, it currently still sits intact in the Movie Colony and, per the official Facebook page, visitors wishing for a close-up peek can make an appointment for a tour by texting (760)774-0318.

2. Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway (1350 Ladera Circle, Palm Springs) – A rarity when it comes to former celebrity residences, Elvis Presley’s onetime desert pad is not only open for tours but looks exactly as it did when The King called it home from 1966 to 1967. From the sunken living room to the curved banquette couch to the tufted pink bed, the place is so well-preserved it honestly feels like the singer just stepped out to grab some milk (or perhaps peanut butter and bananas) and will return within minutes to strum you a little tune on his guitar. Known as the “Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway,” it was there that Presley spent his wedding night with Priscilla on May 1st, 1967. But that’s not its only claim to fame. Built by architect William Krisel for developer Robert Alexander, the dwelling is both architecturally and historically significant, as well. Tours (held daily) are hosted by Elvis expert Michael Ochoa and trust me when I say there’s no better person to guide you through the singer’s former stomping grounds. You can read an in-depth post about my visit to the home in 2017 here.

3. True Serenity Skin Care Spa (73890 El Paseo, Palm Desert) – My pick for the best spa in the Coachella Valley goes to True Serenity, mainly because of its owner. I originally discovered Arlene shortly after moving to the desert many moons back when I found myself desperately in need of a facial one hot summer day. A Google search for “the best esthetician in Palm Springs” led me straight to her. She was working at another salon at the time and once I started seeing her, so did my mom, my dad, and even my apartment manager! We all were devotees for years. Then, one day, the salon announced that Arlene had left (no information about her new location was given) and I was devastated. Considering my stalking skills, it took far longer than I care to admit to finally track her down at her new spa, but I am so happy I did. Arlene designed True Serenity herself and it is like a little piece of heaven right on El Paseo. The treatments also feel heaven-sent. Besides facials, True Serenity offers massages, waxings and other body treatments, including a mean spray tan! [Honorable mention – If you’re looking for a fabulous facial experience, but do not care about a full-blown spa atmosphere, I cannot recommend Kahnema Melkesian more. Working out of a casita at her home and offering prices at a fraction of those of a salon, she honestly gives one of the best facials I’ve ever received. Kahnema can be booked directly via her cell – (760)485-2420).]

4. Kitchen Kitchen (74945 Highway 111, Indian Wells) – I am not into cooking at all, but I still have hearts coming out of my eyes whenever I visit this place. Kitchen Kitchen, which originally opened in 1979, literally has something for everyone, from specialty spices to decorative wine glasses to every culinary gadget and gizmo imaginable! In fact, to steal the Yellow Pages motto – if it’s at all related to cuisine and it’s not in here, maybe it doesn’t exist! After visiting Switzerland in 2013, the GC and I headed to Kitchen Kitchen hoping to buy a traditional Swiss raclette oven. When we asked owner Jan Boydstun (who is always on hand and is a wealth of knowledge on all things culinary) if she happened to sell them, she responded, “Yes, of course! What color are you looking for and would you prefer one with a grill or without?” We walked out with our very own raclette oven minutes later (red and with a grill, in case you were wondering). Though boutiquey in nature, Kitchen Kitchen’s prices rival that of Amazon. And there’s nothing like the amazing customer service the employees provide. Every item sold is tested by Jan herself and if something stocked is returned by more than three customers, she stops selling it. The shop also offers a plethora of ever-changing cooking classes and events at its onsite kitchen. This place is a true desert gem!

5. Mollers Garden Center (72235 Painters Path, Palm Desert) – Though this site is actually a nursery, it feels more like a botanical garden. Situated against a dramatic mountain backdrop and stocked with every kind of cactus you can imagine (not to mention countless other perennials), it’s a gorgeous spot to wander and familiarize yourself with the landscape of the desert. And it’s massive! You can easily spend an entire afternoon perusing the selection, as well as chatting with the employees who are veritable walking/talking encyclopedias of plant knowledge with answers to any and all foliage-related questions. And the gift shop! Oh, the gift shop! It’s one of my favorite boutiques in town. Though on the pricey side, it sells highly unique décor, art, and antiques. Let’s just say I can really do some damage in there. Actually, being that he loves the nursery, neither the GC nor I can walk away from Mollers without making some sort of fun purchase. (Big THANK YOU to my friend Kim for supplying the photo below.)

6. The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens (47900 Portola Avenue, Palm Desert) – The GC and I visit this spot on the regular. In fact, it is one of our favorite places to spend an afternoon during Palm Springs’ temperate months (though it is open year-round for those who don’t mind being outdoors in the heat). Condé Nast Traveler rated it one of the Top Ten Zoos in the United States and it is not very hard to see why – but I think calling it simply a “zoo” is a disservice being that The Living Desert is so much more! Featuring wide vistas that showcase the animals in their natural habitats, journeying through the 1,200-acre site feels more like being on a safari, as evidenced by the photo below. There are also gardens, ponds, a massive model train exhibit, walking trails, camel rides, giraffe feedings, a butterfly sanctuary, and an animal hospital to peruse! The Living Desert is truly one-of-a-kind and offers a new experience each and every visit.

7. Just Fabulous (515 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – My favorite area gift shop, the Grim Cheaper and I have always referred to Just Fabulous as the “Lula Mae of the desert.” It reminds us so much of my beloved Pasadena boutique, though with a Palm Springs slant when it comes to style, theme and aesthetic. Featuring a wide array of Mid-Century décor items, design books, art pieces, whimsical cards, and unique novelties (there’s even an entire selection of The Golden Girls-inspired trinkets!), the offerings here can’t be found anywhere else. Not to mention, with the vibrant color schematic, vivid accoutrements and Old Hollywood prints adorning the walls, visiting the place is like stepping into a modern art museum – or the living room of a really chic friend. Just Fabulous is, well, just fabulous! The store also regularly hosts celebrity book signings and special events, so check the calendar when you’re in town.

8. Destination PSP (170 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – Just a few blocks away from Just Fabulous on downtown’s main drag is Destination PSP, the best store for all things Palm Springs-related. Here you’ll find artwork, fantastical gifts, Mid-Century Modern décor, architecture books, unique tchotchkes, and a myriad of other desert-themed merchandise (there’s even a Palm Springs Opoly board game for sale!). It is the spot to find souvenirs to bring to loved ones back home – or to secure the perfect little trip memento for yourself. From specialty maps to Palm Springs Film Festival posters to tissue boxes fashioned after famous local homes, there’s literally something for everyone on your list! Even if you’re not looking for a gift, the eccentric inventory is a blast to explore.

9. Downtown Palm Springs (Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – Speaking of downtown PS, the area itself is a must-see! Formerly consisting of a stretch of kitschy shops, sunglasses marts and t-shirt emporiums, Palm Canyon Drive has been revamped in recent years and is now a true contender when it comes to shopping. Not only will you find specialty stores like Crystal Fantasy (Robert Downey Jr. is a regular!), Trina Turk, and the Christopher Kennedy Boutique, but the vast majority of storefronts are fabulously modern and sleek, so even just walking around and taking in the sights is a joy. Some of the not-to-miss spots here besides Just Fabulous and Destination PSP include Starbucks Reserve, Ernest Coffee, Koffi and Ristretto (all featured in My Guide to Palm Springs – Coffee), Music Box & Clock Shoppe (a Pandora and Swarovski wonderland!), Lolli & Pops (champagne-flavored gummi bears- yes, please!), Jill Home Accents and Gifts, and Sinfulicious Bodycare. Bonus – each Thursday night (summers included), the main drag is closed to traffic for VillageFest, a lively street fair featuring over 200 vendors selling art, jewelry, food, and gifts.

10. El Paseo Shopping District (El Paseo, between Portola and Monterey Avenues, Palm Desert) – Often described as the “Rodeo Drive of the desert,” El Paseo is the Coachella Valley’s other best shopping destination. In fact, running about a mile long and boasting such upscale boutiques as Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co. and Ralph Lauren, as well as staples like Sephora, Pottery Barn and Banana Republic, the street is Palm Springs’ premier retail district. Not into shopping? There are also salons, restaurants and art galleries galore. Dotted with gorgeous foliage, fountains and plenty of tucked-away chaises to rest your weary feet, you won’t want for anything here.

11. Moorten Botanical Garden (1701 South Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – Initially established as a nursery by Hollywood-actor-turned-horticulturalist Chester Moorten in 1938, today this virtual cactus museum is one of Palm Springs’ most popular attractions. In fact, its cactarium (pictured below) has even been dubbed “the most Instagrammed greenhouse in the world!” Though a scant 1.5 acres in size, Moorten Botanical Garden is definitely not lacking in foliage! Home to more than 3,000 varieties of plants and boasting 9 geographically-themed gardens, not to mention a gift shop and a menagerie of desert animals, this spot is a must-see.

12. Araby Trail (Trailhead and parking at Rim Road and Southridge Drive, Palm Springs) – I am not typically a hiker, but this stroll is one-of-a-kind and even involves some stalking! A 4.2-mile round-trip jaunt, Araby Trail not only offers stunning views of the surrounding valley, but an incredible peek at Bob Hope’s former home (it’s that wavy-roofed structure below) and the famed Elrod House, which cameoed in Diamonds are Forever (both were designed by John Lautner), as well as Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw’s one-time pad. Be aware, the hike, while thoroughly enjoyable, is semi-strenuous, so plan accordingly by wearing good shoes and bringing plenty of water, snacks and other fortification. And for goodness sake, do not attempt it in the summer months, when temps often get up into the 120-degree range! (I would think that last bit goes without saying, but local newscasts are rife with reports of hikers needing rescue during extreme heat. Some are lucky, some not so much.)

13. Coco Rose (74855 Country Club Drive, Palm Desert) – Bright, colorful and sourced entirely from Bali, Coco Rose boasts some of the desert’s most beautiful finds. Started by a mother-daughter team who vacation regularly on the Indonesian island, the boutique stocks necklaces, bracelets, earrings, purses, hats, cover-ups, dresses, and home décor items – all handmade by Balinese artisans and, for the most part, adorned in some way with a tassel. I cannot resist a good tassel, so I was invariably drawn into the store shortly after it opened a few years back. Situated next to what used to be my local market, the GC almost banned me from grocery shopping because each time I did so, I’d invariably come home with a new treasure from Coco Rose. Thankfully, the prices are entirely affordable. The shop is a great place to pick up presents for your fashion-forward friends. There’s also a sister store right across the street in the JW Marriott Desert Springs which is just as fabulous.

14. Cabot’s Pueblo Museum (67616 Desert View Avenue, Desert Hot Springs) – World traveler Cabot Yerxa built this spot as both his private residence and a public museum in 1941. Constructed from reclaimed materials from abandoned nearby cabins and housing the art he collected on his many journeys, the Hopi-inspired site is one of the most unique dwellings in the Coachella Valley. The sprawling home – constructed entirely by hand by Cabot himself – boasts 4 stories, 5,000 square feet, 30 rooflines (!) and views for days. Though the interior (which you can tour) is amazingly unique, the surrounding property is even more intriguing, dotted with unique installations like a 43-foot carved Native American bust, huge wood letters spelling out “CABOT,” and staged street signs half-covered by brush. Though not abandoned, Cabot’s Pueblo Museum definitely has that feel. Tours run $13 a person, but the grounds are free to explore. And there is a fab gift shop on the premises.

15. Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (1 Tram Way, Palm Springs) – I hesitated putting this one on the list, but I do feel like everyone should experience it once, especially those who love to hike. While the peak offers stunning views and the tram ride is an experience in and of itself, I did not particularly enjoy my visit thanks to a bout of motion sickness. As someone who has always been able to read in the car and has no problem on boats, I was shocked that the tram made me nauseous. It slowly rotates as it makes its 5,873-foot journey upward and, for whatever reason, the turns did not agree with me. So if you are easily motion sick, I would avoid this one, sadly. Once at the top, though, the vistas, climate (it’s about thirty degrees cooler than Palm Springs), hiking opportunities, and topography can’t be beat. There are also three dining options at the apex! While I had every intention of hitting up the upscale Peaks Restaurant, described as “a culinary experience above the clouds” and ranked by Architectural Digest as one of the world’s best cliffside eateries, unfortunately, food was the last thing on my mind once I got off the tram. I have heard nothing but excellent things about the place, though, and wish I could have partaken.

16. Palms to Pines Scenic Byway (Start at Monterey Avenue and CA-111, Palm Desert) – Those wishing to see scenic views of the Coachella Valley without having to travel on a spinning tram to do so should head to the Palms to Pines Scenic Byway in Palm Desert. Though it does have its own share of twists and turns, a quick 8.5-mile drive south whisks you away to a stunning lookout featuring sweeping vistas of practically the entire desert. Heading even farther up the mountain brings even more dramatic views and eventually leads to Idyllwild, a charming mountain community with shops, restaurants and cafés – the perfect place to spend a chilly afternoon.

17. Day Trip to the Salton Sea – If you’re spending more than a few days in the desert, there’s nothing quite like a road trip out to the Salton Sea! In fact, it’s one of my and the GC’s favorite spots to take guests. We recommend the east side of the sea as the west isn’t all that unique. The journey takes at least five hours if you do it right and though there are some bathrooms along the way, they are few and far between. As such, a stop at the Mecca Travel Center at the start of your road trip is suggested. Not only can you fill up your tank with gas at the Arco on the premises (90480 66th Avenue, Mecca), but you can utilize the bathroom at the neighboring Starbucks (90496 66th Avenue, Mecca). The plaza is the last retail you are going to see for a while. Our typical Salton Sea itinerary is as follows:

First stop – the International Banana Museum (98775 CA-111, Mecca, hours vary)! Well, if we find it open, at least. Boasting what the Guinness Book of World Records has deemed the largest collection devoted to a single fruit (yes, that’s a thing!) and with over 25,000 banana-related items on display, this place has to be seen to be believed! Though there is a $1 admission fee, it is well worth it, especially considering that dollar can be put toward a frozen banana, or another treat, if you are so inclined. There is a restroom here, as well – with yellow walls and a picture of a monkey sitting on a toilet eating a banana (natch!).

Your next destination, the North Shore Yacht Club (99155 Sea View Drive, Mecca), is a short one-mile journey south. Once a luxury vacation destination, today the Salton Sea is a virtual post-apocalyptic dreamland thanks to agricultural runoff that turned the water toxic, as well as massive flooding that forced residents out in droves. At the height of the area’s popularity, though, the Sea was the place to be and the Albert Frey-designed North Shore Yacht Club the hangout for visiting A-Listers such as Frank Sinatra, The Beach Boys, and Dean Martin. Shuttered in 1984, the structure sat abandoned until being renovated in 2010 and today serves as a recreation center, though I’ve never seen it open. Regardless, the club site provides some of the best views of the Salton Sea, as well as all of its secrets. In fact, nowhere is the dichotomy of the area illustrated more than at the Yacht Club. Standing in the parking lot offers vistas of a gorgeous blue expanse of water and pristine stretch of white sandy beach. Venture down to the shoreline, though (which is a must!), and it becomes apparent that the sea is actually brown and the picturesque blue seen from afar just a reflection of the sky. And that sandy beach? As your nose likely alerted you during your journey to the tide, it’s actually dried and crushed fish bones from the thousands upon thousands of carcasses that regularly wash ashore. Both beautiful and harrowing at the same time, the Salton Sea has to been seen to be believed.

Stop number three, twenty miles south, is Bombay Beach (Highway 111 and Avenue A, Niland), a small census-designated township made up of about two hundred homes and trailers, the vast majority of which are abandoned. The lowest city in America, elevation-wise, Bombay Beach is also the most filmed spot in Imperial County! And it’s not very hard to see why. Half-vacant and dilapidated, half-populated, it’s like no other place in the world. Thanks to the Bombay Beach Biennale, founded in 2015, the area is also now home to countless highly unique art installations (like the signage below) which are dotted throughout the various streets. Like the Salton Sea, Bombay Beach truly has to be seen to be believed.

After perusing Bombay Beach (and you really should drive up and down every single street!), I highly recommend popping into the Ski Inn (9596 Avenue A, Niland) for a bite to eat (and yes, there’s a restroom on the premises). Though a bit rough around the edges, the restaurant serves up some truly decent food (in fact, Anthony Bourdain had his very first patty melt there!) and is a filming location!

From Bombay Beach, head twenty miles southeast to Salvation Mountain (603 Beal Road in Niland), yet another has-to-be-seen-to-be-believed site (are you noticing a theme here?). A monument to God’s love created in the 1980s by Leonard Knight and fashioned out of adobe, straw and local junkyard trash, the vibrant bluff stands like a beacon on an otherwise wide, flat expanse of dusty desert land. Though Leonard passed away in 2014 after almost 30 years of maintaining the mountain, it is still intact thanks to his legions of devotees who work painstakingly to keep it going. Today, thousands upon thousands of visitors make pilgrimages there each year, both to meditate and reflect and to view the spectacle of it all. (If you need a restroom, the last one out this way can be found in between Salvation Mountain and Bombay Beach at the Soco Mini-Mart located at 8004 CA-111 in Niland.)

The last stop on your Salton Sea journey is Slab City (Beal Road, Calipatria), the entrance to which is located a mile east of Salvation Mountain. Originally a World War II training facility, the township takes its name from the concrete slabs left behind after the base was shut down, where those wishing to live off the grid eventually set up homes. With no running water, sewer system, or electricity, most residents inhabit tents erected on the slabs or RVs situated next to them. Though it might sound desolate and dreary, the citizens have really created something unique and most couldn’t be more friendly or inviting. Again, there is quite a lot to see here, from The Range (887 Beal Road, Calipatria), Slab City’s local BYOB bar/open-air nightclub, to East Jesus (East Jesus Road, Calipatria), an incredible outdoor immersive art museum. (That’s one of the exhibits pictured below.) Highly unique, celebratory of its surroundings and offering endless photo opportunities, Slab City is an amazing slice of Americana.

18. Day Trip to Yucca Valley – Another worthwhile day trip is to the Joshua Tree area on the other side of the Coachella Valley. Offering more has-to-be-seen-to-be-believed sites, these more pastoral in nature, the region is strikingly desolate but dramatically beautiful at the same time. Our usual journey there is a literal round trip, so you can follow the suggested route below backward as well as forward.

The area’s most notable attraction is, of course, Joshua Tree National Park. Boasting three access points, I recommend starting at the South Entrance (Pinto Basin Road and Cottonwood Oasis Road, Twentynine Palms) and driving all the way through the park, exiting at the West Entrance (6554 Park Boulevard, Joshua Tree). Joshua Tree is a must-see in its entirety, but some notable spots include Skull Rock (the name speaks for itself – that’s it below), Keys View (an incredible vista providing panoramic views of the Coachella Valley), and Barker Damn Loop (a short 1.1-mile trail leading to the so-called “Disney Petroglyphs”, a smattering of Native American etchings that The Walt Disney Company painted over during a film shoot so as to make more visible onscreen).

All that exploring has likely made you hungry, so upon exiting the park via the West Entrance head straight to Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace (53688 Pioneertown Road, Pioneertown), my favorite area restaurant, for lunch! Established in 1972 as a burrito/biker bar and then re-envisioned as an eatery/live music venue in 1982, the place is still going strong today. Housed in a ramshackle wooden building, Pappy & Harriet’s can best be described as a whimsical honky-tonk with adobe walls, posters from the many bands who have played on the premises lining the walls and ceiling, and signs stating “Hippies Use Side Door!” plastered at the front. Though you might think the place shabby, it’s actually fabulously hip – and serves up some of the best food the desert has to offer! As such, and considering its charmingly unique aesthetic, it has attracted hordes of celebrities including Emma Stone, Anne Hathaway, Paul McCartney, Helen Mirren and Anthony Bourdain.

If you find Pappy & Harriett’s closed (as it is every Tuesday and Wednesday), hit up my other favorite area restaurant, Crossroads Cafe (61715 Twentynine Palms Highway, Joshua Tree), which stands literally steps away from the park’s West Entrance. With a welcoming atmosphere and an incredible menu (Taco Pollo is my fave offering!), you can’t go wrong with a meal there. (Big THANK YOU to my friend Kim for the photo below!)

Surrounding Pappy & Harriet’s is one of my favorite spots in the desert – Pioneertown (Entrance at Pioneertown and Curtis Roads, Pioneertown). A collection of rickety wooden buildings lining a dusty dirt road, the site began life as a permanent movie set created by Hollywood heavyweights Gene Autry, Roy Rogers and Dale Evans in 1946. Hundreds upon hundreds of Westerns were shot there during the genre’s heyday. When the film shoots dried up in the late ‘60s, Pioneertown was, for whatever reason, left intact and amazingly still looks much as it did when John Wayne and Bud Abbott roamed the premises. Today, the majority of the storefronts are occupied by fabulous specialty shops, there’s an operating onsite motel, and most weekends you’ll find the street bustling with people. Live western shows are even staged on occasion during Palm Springs’ high season. Pioneertown is a must-stop for kids and adults alike.

The drive from Pioneertown back to Palm Springs drops you in the heart of Yucca Valley, where there is much to explore including antique shops, high-end boutiques, and cafés. Some of the standouts include The End (55872 Twentynine Palms Highway), a vintage store owned by 90210 costume designer Kime Buzzelli which I wrote about here (I don’t know what’s better about this place, its fabulous wares or chatting with Kime, who is the absolute best!), Acme 5 Lifestyle (55870 Twentynine Palms), a modern interior design studio, Ricochet Vintage Wears (61731 Twentynine Palms Highway), a kitschy resale store, Jen’s Pirate Booty (61729 Twentynine Palms Highway), an upscale women’s clothing store, and on the way out of town Cactus Mart (49889 Twentynine Palms Highway, Morongo Valley), one of the area’s best nurseries!

Well, that brings us to the end of My Guide to Palm Springs! I hope you enjoyed reading through the series as much as I enjoyed putting it together. I also hope my recommendations direct you to some fun adventures in the desert. In case you missed my previous posts, you can check them out here – My Guide to Palm Springs – Hotels, My Guide to Palm Springs – Restaurants, My Guide to Palm Springs – Coffee, and My Guide to Palm Springs – Cocktails. And, as always, for more stalking fun, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Los Angeles magazine and Discover Los Angeles.

September 25, 2019September 27, 2019

My Guide to Palm Springs – Cocktails

Palm Springs has long been a playground of the show business elite, largely because back in the days of Old Hollywood, the studios required their stars to always be within a two-hour drive from Los Angeles. The desert – picturesque, secluded and a scant 100 miles from Lalaland – therefore became the obvious go-to spot for celebrities to get away. Private and void of paparazzi, the area also became a venue for the rich and famous to cut loose, far away from the watchful eye of the press. So, of course, the city has never been short on places to imbibe. Read on for a list of my favorites.

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1. Adobe Grill (49499 Eisenhower Drive, La Quinta) – It is not so much about the quality of cocktails at this joint, but the picturesque surroundings and stellar views. Situated on the second floor of the La Quinta Resort & Club’s main plaza, Adobe Grill boasts a killer elevated patio overlooking a huge meandering fountain, the vibrant red roofs of the neighboring adobe buildings, grassy expanses, and the Santa Rosa Mountains. Strung with twinkle lights and dotted with small tables and outdoor couches, you won’t find a prettier place in all of the desert to enjoy an aperitif or two al fresco, especially during Palm Springs’ more temperate months.

2. The Nest (75188 CA-111, Indian Wells) – This spot is a trip in all the best ways! The Grim Cheaper and I started coming here about twenty years ago when it was the place in the desert for retirees to cut a rug. Dressed to the nines and sporting pretty amazing moves, 55+ locals (with a heck of a lot more stamina than me!) ruled the establishment’s dance floor till the wee hours of the morning. As such, The Nest offered the best people-watching in the area! As word has gotten out about the place, the clientele has grown to include much younger out-of-towners who not only want to observe the reverie but participate in it as well. Though much different than it was back in the day thanks to the new semi-club-like atmosphere, The Nest remains a guaranteed good time! And it’s still the premier people-watching spot in Palm Springs! Bonus – the food here is excellent, so if you do hit this place up, I suggest grabbing dinner in the main dining room before moving over to the bar area for cocktails and dancing. You pretty much won’t ever find The Nest not at capacity, so reservations are recommended.

3. Tropicale Restaurant & Coral Seas Lounge (330 East Amado Road, Palm Springs) – Though this place opened in 2008, it feels authentically old-timey. Decked out in bright pinks and greens with a decidedly tropical feel, Tropicale is easily the prettiest of all the lounges on this list. With an indoor/outdoor bar, an expansive 2,000-square-foot patio, high-backed banquettes, and a truly retro look, this is the spot to come if you are seeking a true Palm Springs experience. Bonus – it’s also great for dinner!

4. High Bar (100 West Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs) – Palm Springs’ only rooftop bar! As such, the views can’t be beat. Situated around the Kimpton Rowan Hotel’s sparkling pool, lined with glass walls, adorned with huge golden barrel cacti and dotted with vibrant fuchsia and orange chaises, you’ll be hard-pressed to decide what’s prettier – the mountain vistas or High Bar itself. Even during one of the desert’s uh-ma-zing pink sunsets, it’s pretty much a toss-up. Romantic, gorgeous and intimate, you won’t regret grabbing a cocktail here.

5. Copley’s Restaurant (621 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; seasonal) – Craving some Hollywood history with your drink, you say? Well, then run, don’t walk, to Copley’s Restaurant! During the 1940s and ‘50s, the picturesque eatery was owned by none other than Cary Grant, who utilized it as an off-site guest house for famous friends visiting him in the desert. Tinseltown connection notwithstanding, Copley’s (named for head chef/owner Andrew Manion Copley) is one of the desert’s most fabulous spots! Featuring a huge central courtyard (with a fire pit and plenty of casual seating for those wanting to imbibe), a shaded patio, an intimate bar, and a myriad of tucked-away corners, Copley’s is romantic, picturesque and oh-so unique. And while I’ve never dined there, I’ve heard it serves up a mean meal!

6. Melvyn’s Restaurant & Lounge (200 West Ramon Road, Palm Springs) – This place is similar in vein to The Nest as far as being a hot spot for desert denizens to show off their ballroom skills, but Melvyn’s is much classier and more low-key. Nevertheless, the people-watching is top-notch, as is the musical accompaniment. There’s nothing more fun than being a fly on the wall, drink in hand, listening to the live tinkling of the ivories and observing local retirees living their best life. Melvyn’s also boasts quite the Hollywood history. Opened by Mel Haber in 1975, it was a favorite watering hole of such luminaries as Liza Minelli, Joey Bishop, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Rat Pack. Frank Sinatra loved the place so much he held the rehearsal dinner for his wedding to Barbara there and was even known to occasionally offer his voice as accompaniment to the piano that still sits on the premises today. If Melvyn’s walls could only talk!

7. La Quinta Cliffhouse (18250 CA-111, La Quinta) – One of the most popular happy hours in the desert – so much so that if you want to partake, you pretty much have to get to the bar right at 4 p.m. when it opens (if not earlier!). Built right up against the edge of a mountain, La Quinta Cliffhouse provides stellar views, killer drinks, and a fantastic atmosphere no matter what time you go, though. With a massive two-story waterfall, two large patios, and copious windows showcasing the surrounding vistas, you can’t go wrong with cocktails (or a meal – I’m partial to the grilled shrimp) at this place.

8. Ristorante Mamma Gina (73705 El Paseo, Palm Desert) – Another favorite, hard-to-get-into happy hour spot, the offerings at Mamma Gina are extensive (you can check out the HH menu here)! Though jammed from about 5 to 10 p.m. every single night during the season, happy hour is offered all day so you can pop in at any time and enjoy a $15 filet (grilled to perfection and served with a homemade mushroom sauce) and a $6 martini (poured just the way Don Draper would have wanted). Established in 1986 by Piero Pierattoni (who also gave us Piero PizzaVino, which I wrote about in My Guide to Palm Springs – Restaurants), the food served is authentically Italian and incredibly delicious – so good, all of the selections are worth it even at non-happy-hour prices.

9. Jackalope Ranch (80400 CA-111, Indio) – Easily the largest lounge on this list, Jackalope Ranch boasts a 21,000-square-foot main restaurant and 6.5 acres of land! As its website notes, “There is quite a bit to relish here – on and off the menu.” I’ve never actually eaten on the premises (though I’ve heard the fare is solid), but I have grabbed a cocktail and can say the ambiance is lush, divine, and sprawling. Wandering the manicured grounds, champagne in hand, makes for quite the unique cocktail experience. Whether you sit at the main bar, on the lawn under the shade of one of the eatery’s many trees, or next to the onsite pond, I can pretty much guarantee the surroundings will be extraordinary.

10. Vue Grille & Bar (44500 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells) – The name really says it all – it’s about the view at this place, though the drinks and food offerings are stellar, too. Overlooking the gorgeous Indian Wells Golf Resort, Vue Grille & Bar is, simply put, stunning! Locals also love the brunch here (complete with a make-your-own Aperol Spritz station!) and the Shots in the Night golf experience, but for me, there’s nothing better than cozying up at one of the patio tables with a crisp glass of bubbly and watching the sunset.

11. Lulu California Bistro (200 South Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – All-day happy hour with a bustling, colorful front patio and the best mushroom soup in town – what more could you possibly need? Most locals agree. As such, Lulu California Bistro is always packed. A true Palm Springs staple, the service is friendly, the ambiance cheerful and both the food and drinks solid. Sister restaurant Acqua California Bistro at The River in Rancho Mirage (which was also started by Piero Pierattoni and shares the same menu as Lulu) is just as good and boasts fabulous views of the shopping center’s large pond.

12. Stuft Pizza Bar & Grill (78015 Main Street #100, La Quinta) – Yet another beloved, hard-to-get-into happy hour, but, trust me, it’s worth the wait. With an extensive selection (there are over 40 food offerings!) and $4 glasses of wine, you cannot go wrong with a visit to Stuft! I always opt for the crab cakes and a glass of champagne (natch!) and walk away full and perfectly buzzed. The pizzas here are also incredible (and yes, they are available on the happy hour menu). Stuft boasts a sister restaurant located in the Westfield Palm Desert mall, as well, but I prefer the La Quinta outpost with its fabulous side patio and mountain views.

Be sure to check back Friday for my last post in this series, My Guide to Palm Springs – See/Do/Shop. And don’t forget to read my previous guides about the desert’s best hotels, restaurants, coffee houses and places to see/things to do. As always, for more stalking fun, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Los Angeles magazine and Discover Los Angeles.

September 23, 2019September 27, 2019

My Guide to Palm Springs – Restaurants

As I’ve mentioned many times on this blog, I am in no way a foodie, preferring chicken strips and ranch dressing to foie gras and jus. My Guide to Palm Springs – Restaurants will reflect that. Here you’ll find the best of the best comfort food, down home cooking, delis, and cafés, with a few fine dining options thrown in. If you are looking for a more epicurean experience while visiting the area, I defer to my friend Molly of Almost Makes Perfect. You can check out her desert recommendations here. (From what I’ve heard from others who are of the gourmand variety, Cork & Fork, Farm, and Workshop Kitchen + Bar are the best foodie spots in town and Wilma & Frieda is the place for homemade baked goods, which, being diabetic, I don’t eat.) For my list, I based my dollar rating on The New York Times restaurant key and grouped the eateries from least to most expensive. A few of the spots are seasonal (in other words, closed during Palm Springs’ hot summer months, typically from June through September) and are denoted as such next to their address. So without further ado, bon appétit!

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1. Keedy’s Fountain & Grill ($) 73633 CA-111, Palm Desert – The Coachella Valley’s best greasy spoon and the kind of place that serves breakfast all day, Keedy’s has long been a family favorite. Somewhat of a hidden gem (despite the fact that it has been in operation at the same spot since 1957!), I am always flabbergasted when locals have never heard of it. Open for breakfast and lunch (and always packed to the gills), we typically hit this place up in the morning. I prefer the basics (poached eggs and sausage patties), but Keedy’s is most loved for its pancakes, which are often described as “the best in town.” The ‘50s atmosphere is great here, too. And despite being constantly crowded, Keedy’s is run like a well-oiled machine, so the wait times are never terrible.

2. Bobby’s Detroit Coney Island ($) 79630 CA-111, La Quinta (seasonal, closed for the month of August) – My family’s other favorite greasy spoon, this spot serves up great breakfasts, though my preferred dish is Nancy’s Crispy Chicken Salad, topped by chicken strips that I would have bet money were homemade on the premises but apparently are not. (The creamy garlic dressing – a secret family recipe – is crafted inhouse daily, however.) The hot dogs here are also out of this world and the service is insanely friendly. My mom and I popped in once for a late lunch around 1:45 p.m., not realizing the restaurant closes at 2. We were welcomed right in, served a fabulous meal and it wasn’t until they starting locking up when we headed to the door that we realized our gaffe. Though we apologized, our server would have none of it, thanking us profusely for coming in. Bobby’s is a gem!

3. The Sandwich Spot ($) 276 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs – Tucked away and tiny, one can easily walk right by this spot without realizing it is there, which is a true shame because it serves up some of the best sandwiches in the valley! With an extensive menu of over 24 hoagie offerings (each of them fabulous!), my favorite thing about this eatery is that any choice can be made as a salad, so it’s diabetic-friendly for me! (I’d be remiss if I did not give an honorable mention to TKB Deli & Bakery here. I don’t love the place, but everyone else I know does. In fact, I think I might be the only person in the Coachella Valley who is not a fan. The restaurant is so beloved that it secured the Number 1 spot on Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in 2018. I think the homemade bread is what sets it apart. Being diabetic, I typically don’t eat bread on sandwiches and, sadly, without it, the offerings at TKB are seriously lacking, IMO. That is, thankfully, not the case at The Sandwich Spot.)

4. Sunnylands Café ($) 37977 Bob Hope Dr, Rancho Mirage (seasonal) – This is my favorite spot to grab a quick bite whenever the GC and I are in the area running errands. The salads here are great and inexpensive, but the real draw is the ambiance. Overlooking Sunnylands Gardens, this place has views for days! If you eat here and have a few moments, be sure to explore both the attached museum (admission is free and exhibits change regularly) and the surrounding landscape. It is all spectacular! And if you’re architecturally inclined, book a tour of the historic Sunnylands estate, former home of philanthropists Walter and Leonore Annenburg and a stomping ground of countless U.S. presidents.

5. Luscious Lorraine’s ($) 73910 CA-111 Suite F, Palm Desert – Vegan, gluten-free and, paleo friends – this is the spot for you! Specialized offerings for every kind of dietary restriction (there’s even a pregnancy-prep menu!), this place is health-minded, but incredibly good. As I’ve mentioned before, my family has pretty disparate dietary needs, but that’s never a problem at Lorraine’s. From lentil mushroom patties to macro nutrient bowls to tempeh sandwiches, there’s something for everyone here, no matter what ails you! (Photo below via the Luscious Lorraine’s website.)

6. La Quinta Baking Company ($$) 78395 CA-111, La Quinta – My mom’s pick for the best breakfast in town, La Quinta Baking Company is quaint, intimate and charming. And while not a big breakfast person myself, I have to say the spread here is exceptional. The baked goods (all homemade, as is most of what is served on the premises) stretch as far as the eye can see in the front case and the omelets (with American cheese melted on top!) are revelations! Truth be told everything is good here and the restaurant is picturesque both inside and out, especially the front patio. It’s like a little slice of Europe right in the desert.

7. Eureka! ($$) 74985 CA-111, Indian Wells – Another of my mom’s picks, she has a particular affinity for the hamburgers at this place. Eureka! is famous for them, no doubt. I am not a burger person myself, but the salads here are excellent, especially the cobb. The eatery also offers great drinks and appetizers, as well as full blown meals. In fact, whenever the Grim Cheaper doesn’t feel like cooking and suggests take-out, Eureka! is my first request.

8. Sherman’s Deli & Bakery ($$) 401 East Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs – The club here (which I order non-stacked, the bacon extra crispy, with added cheddar and avocado, sans bread) is hands-down one of the best.sandwiches.anywhere. Sherman’s has countless offerings, though, including salads, pastas and pretty much anything else you could ever hope to order. You almost need a full day to go through the menu! And you honestly can’t go wrong with a selection. Sherman’s is a true Palm Springs landmark! The deli also boasts a sister location in Palm Desert (which was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives!), but I prefer the original.

9. Manhattan in the Desert ($$) 2665 E Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs – My other favorite area deli, Manhattan in the Desert truly is like a little slice of the Big Apple right here in PS! I’m partial to the turkey, bacon, cheddar and avocado sandwich (and yes, it’s great even without bread), but this is another spot where you can’t go wrong with a selection. All sandwiches are “mile high,” stacked to perfection and served with a free sampling of delicious pickled goods.

10. King’s Highway ($$) 701 East Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs – I rarely eat carbs or breakfast, but when I am craving both, this is the spot I head. King’s Highway at the Ace Hotel serves up some of the best avocado toast in the world! The place seems to change up the dish on the reg (currently it’s served with confit tomato, onion sprouts, crispy shallots and a soft-boiled egg), but each variety I’ve had has been nothing short of spectacular. The GC finds the rest of the menu a little odd (I’m a creature of habit and have only ever ordered the avo toast), but all the others I’ve taken here really enjoyed it. A reimagined Denny’s, the ambiance is pretty cool, too.

11. The Old Spaghetti Factory ($$) 71743 CA-111, Rancho Mirage – For me, this one is all about the décor, though the food is excellent, too. Walking through the doors of The Old Spaghetti Factory in Rancho Mirage is like stepping onto a highly stylized movie set. Towering red tufted booths, crystal chandeliers, wood-beamed ceilings (there’s even a vintage trolley car!), the place feels more like the Beast’s castle from Beauty and the Beast than a restaurant. Fantastical, whimsical, and oh-so-much fun, there’s truly no other spot like it in the desert.

12. Murph’s Gaslight ($$) 79860 Ave 42, Bermuda Dunes – This place may be a little rough around the edges, but it cooks up some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had! The plastic dining ware it’s served on? Well, that’s just part of the charm – as are the questionably-colored gravy and ubiquitous canned fruit/sponge cake dessert. It’s all about the chicken here and trust me, it’s fantastic! Friends who I’ve brought to Murph’s undoubtedly say, “This is just like my [insert relative who hails from the south] used to make!” And it’s served bottomless, family-style with mashed potatoes, corn bread, veggies, biscuits, salad, and dessert included. Dining here is a true experience. And yep, Murph’s has a full bar with champagne, as pictured below. Fried chicken and champagne? That’s pretty much my perfect meal.

13. The Pink Cabana ($$$) 44985 Province Way, Indian Wells – Hands-down the Coachella Valley’s prettiest restaurant, The Pink Cabana is a designer’s dreamland! All soft blushes and subtle greens with incredible tilework, the newcomer (it opened in 2018) is gorgeous! And the food is fabulous to boot! Go for the Instagram opportunities, stay for the chicken tacos (my fave menu item)!

14. Bella Vita ($$$) 74970 Country Club Dr, Palm Desert – This is the site of one of my and the GC’s favorite Coachella Valley meals. Fairly close to where we used to live, we wound up here unexpectedly during a particularly disastrous anniversary. I can’t remember the circumstances now (as is the case with most things that initially seem disastrous), but our initial plans somehow got ruined and we found ourselves at Bella Vita last minute. I was in the worst mood, the kind nothing nor no one can get me out of. And then I walked through the front doors into one of the most warm and inviting spaces I’d ever visited, the scent of homemade Italian food promptly hitting my senses, and by the time we sat down and that first sip of bubbly hit my lips, I was immediately transformed. The night turned out being one of our best anniversaries ever – all thanks to Bella Vita!

15. Piero’s PizzaVino ($$$) 73722 El Paseo #1, Palm Desert – Florence-born Piero Pierattoni is behind numerous desert eateries, each one more fabulous than the last! (Several will be included in my upcoming Guide to Palm Springs – Cocktails thanks to their excellent happy hours.) This casual spot serves up authentic Italian food (all culled from generations-old family recipes straight from Italy), but is best known for its traditional Neapolitan Pizza, which is perfectly airy, crisp and cheesy! I typically go for the more diabetic-friendly pancetta-wrapped asparagus and grilled artichokes, though truth be told we’ve never had a bad meal here. Piero is often on hand to chat with patrons and, let me tell you, the guy is a character! There’s nothing better than grabbing a drink at the bar and listening to him regale guests with tales of his beloved native country.

16. Armando’s Dakota Bar and Grill ($$$) (73260 El Paseo, Palm Desert) – My pick for the best Mexican food in the desert and I’m not alone in that assessment. Pretty much everyone who comes to the area makes it a point to eat at Armando’s. A Palm Desert staple since 2001, the offerings here are exceptional, the service friendly and the margaritas strong (so strong, in fact, the restaurant limits patrons to two per visit!). The front patio, overlooking the shops on El Paseo, is an especially idyllic spot during more temperate months.

17. Arnold Palmer’s Restaurant ($$$$) 78164 52nd Avenue, La Quinta (seasonal) – Fine dining at its, well, finest, Arnold Palmer’s (opened by the golf great in 2004) serves up some of the desert’s best food. And the ambiance is priceless. With huge rear and side patios, mountain views, a club-like interior, unique mementos on display (including one of The King’s four Masters jackets), and even a putting green where patrons can hit balls, it’s also one of the area’s prettiest and most unique spots. You can’t go wrong with a meal here. (For the record, I’m partial to the crab cakes.)

18. Lavender Bistro ($$$$) 78073 Calle Barcelona, La Quinta (seasonal) – The food here is excellent, some of the best I’ve had in the desert (the mushroom soup is a can’t miss!), but this spot’s real claim to fame is its courtyard. Central, sprawling, decked out in shades of purple, and adorned with about a million twinkle lights, the space made me gasp aloud the first time I saw it. It is a magical little fairyland that the photo below really does not do justice to. As such – and very deservedly so – Lavender Bistro is regularly named Palm Springs’ most romantic restaurant by just about every publication out there.

19. Misaki Sushi & Grill ($$$$) 46600 Washington Street, #1, La Quinta – This hard-to-find spot (it’s hidden away behind a Trader Joe’s) is hands-down the Coachella Valley’s best sushi restaurant. And I would know, I’ve been dragged to pretty much all of them! While not a sushi fan myself, both the GC and my best friend, Robin, are. The two were devastated when their favorite desert spot, Gyoro Gyoro, closed in 2018 and promptly went on a quest to find another local place up to par. That quest ended as soon as they landed at Misaki. It’s been our go-to spot ever since. During their first visit, they ordered the dish below and it was so intricately plated, Robin commented that he was shocked a miniature train circling the sashimi hadn’t been included. And yes, it apparently tasted just as good as it looked!

20. Cunard’s Sandbar ($$$$) 78120 Calle Tampico, La Quinta (seasonal) – Don’t make the same mistake the GC and I did by judging a book by its cover with this one. Rather dumpy from the outside, we assumed Cunard’s Sandbar was a dive bar and avoided it the first few years we lived here. It was not until my friend Kim touted the place’s virtues on Facebook that I realized it was actually a restaurant. We decided to give it a whirl shortly thereafter and haven’t looked back since!

Sandbar is Old School Italian at its finest! In fact, it reminds me a lot of my beloved Vitello’s before it was completely revamped. Dimly lit, cozy and intimate, the restaurant even has quite a few celebrity fans including Gena Rowlands who dines on the premises so regularly she has her own table! Though the food is good, it’s really the ambiance and retro vibe that set this place apart. Sandbar is tiny and typically packed, so reservations are recommended.

21. Zin American Bistro ($$$$) 198 South Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs – My and the GC’s favorite Palm Springs restaurant! When we stayed at the nearby Korakia Pensione for a week, we ate at Zin every. single. night. Though other eateries were recommended to us, we found ourselves returning night after night, craving one of the place’s delectable dishes. There’s literally nothing I’ve tried here that I didn’t absolutely love, but some of the standouts include the Wild Mushroom Truffle Soup, Vegetable Tartar, Fresh Burrata salad, Carpaccio, and the Crispy Chicken Sandwich. The nice part about Zin is that you can overindulge in a decadent meal or keep it extremely healthy and, either way, it will be delicious!

Bonus – Tiffany’s Sweet Spot (79410 CA-111 Suite 101, La Quinta) – Craving dessert? Do not pass go, do not collect $200, head straight to Tiffany’s Sweet Spot in La Quinta! While this place is not a restaurant, I felt compelled to include it on my list for those wanting a a to-go treat. The tiny walk-up bakery, situated in a strip mall, serves cupcakes that are on par with Magnolia Bakery in New York (the best cupcakes in the world, IMO). Over 20 varieties are available each day and all are made to order. Each flavor can also be purchased gluten free and I actually think the gf samplings are better than the regular. This is my neighborhood’s go-to spot when anyone on the street is celebrating a birthday. Favorites include the Triple Chocolate, Salted Caramel Mocha, and Tres Leches.

Be sure to check out the other posts in My Guide to Palm Springs series about the desert’s best coffee houses, hotels, bars and places to see/things to do. And, as always, for more stalking fun, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Los Angeles magazine and Discover Los Angeles.

September 18, 2019September 27, 2019

My Guide to Palm Springs – Coffee

My love of coffee knows no bounds! So I have, of course, visited pretty much every café the Coachella Valley has to offer. Of that group, there are a few standouts. Read on for my list of the very best spots to grab a cup of joe in the desert. As was the case with my hotel recommendations, this guide is not limited to Palm Springs, but encompasses all area cities including Indian Wells, Indio and Palm Desert.

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1. Ristretto (500 South Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – This spot gets the award for my favorite downtown Palm Springs café. Formally known as “Ristretto, for Coffee Lovers,” the establishment serves up the very best java in the desert (in my opinion, at least). From iced lattes to americanos, you can’t go wrong with an espresso order here. The ambiance is pretty stellar, too. Situated on the ground floor of The Five Hundred building, a landmark property originally built in 1968 to house Alan Ladd Hardware, the contemporary surroundings are gorgeous and so very Palm Springs! (Be sure to check out the fabulous fountain in the main lobby!) Ristretto (Italian for “narrow,” the name refers to a short espresso pull) also offers baked goods, salads and sandwiches, as well as mobile ordering for those pressed (see what I did there? Winking smile ) for time.

2. Old Town Coffee Company (78100 Main Street, La Quinta) – You won’t find a prettier spot to grab a cappuccino in all of the desert! Old Town Coffee Company, in the heart of picturesque Old Town La Quinta, features stunning views of the neighboring adobe buildings, mountain peaks in the distance, and towering palm trees dotting the premises. Add that to the fact that the place serves up some heavenly lattes and there’s nothing more you could desire – except for maybe some baked goods and Old Town Coffee’s homemade muffins and scones can’t be beat! The café’s motto, “It’s where good friends meet for great coffee,” couldn’t be truer. I always take visitors here for a cup or two and have countless fond memories of lounging on the eatery’s expansive patio with loved ones. The bistro even counts Kevin Bacon as a fan! The actor spent several hours here soaking up the ambiance one sunny Saturday morning in 2017.

3. Ernest Coffee (1101 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – This place touts itself as the only independent coffee house in Palm Springs to serve Stumptown java. But there’s so much more to be had here! With cheeky décor, bright airy windows showcasing bustling Palm Canyon Drive, a banana-leaf-mural-adorned patio, and plenty of comfy spots to lounge, Ernest Coffee is a must-visit. And it’s historic! Situated in the building that once housed Don the Beachcomber (originally opened in 1953), the café is named in honor of the landmark tiki restaurant’s founder, Ernest Gantt, aka “Donn Beach.” The site even retains some of the Beachcomber’s original kitschy detailing, like the bright orange tiki torches that tower above the front door. Besides fine roasts, Ernest also serves wine, beer and champagne (yaaaaaas!), as well as finger foods. And it has a celebrity following, too! I first learned about it thanks to Abigail Spencer who posted about it in an Instagram story in early 2017.

4. IW Coffee (74995 CA-111, Indian Wells) – Easily the desert’s most Instagrammable café (that coffee sign, amirite?), this spot also serves up a great cup of joe. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to grab a drink and settle in for the afternoon, as evidenced by the always-occupied tables. Started by one of the former owners of Old Town Coffee Company, the eatery serves up similarly scrumptious muffins and scones, a well as sandwiches and salads. Bonus – there is a sister location in Palm Desert.

5. Starbucks Reserve (110 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – I had never heard of Starbucks Reserve until this place opened in late 2017. Featuring exclusive drinks (my first ever Reserve sampling is below!), counter seating, and striking décor, the Reserve locations are described as being “coffee theatre.” And the one in downtown Palm Springs truly is! With a sleek, contemporary interior, the design boasts nods to the desert surroundings via a huge air plant display that serves as a focal point. It is also one of the biggest outposts of the chain I’ve ever come across – so large, it feels like three regular stores could fit inside it! Despite being insanely crowded at all hours (it is the only Starbucks in downtown Palm Springs), wait times are surprisingly not all that terrible and mobile ordering is also offered. If it were up to me, though, I’d linger in line and soak up all the beauty the café has to offer.

6. Il Sogno (73375 El Paseo, Palm Desert) – This place is best known for its extensive array of homemade goods, which are decadent, gorgeous and delectable to say the least. But it also serves up a perfect pour of java, not to mention great European Old Country-style lunches, including incredible soups of the day! Per owner Mirjana Ilic, who is always on-hand to answer any and all questions about her exquisite fare, everything served is artfully crafted on the premises daily. Originally founded in 1990 in the Pacific Palisades (where The Wall Street Journal deemed it one of the two best restaurants in all of Los Angeles), it moved to Palm Desert’s exclusive El Paseo shopping district in 2009. The quaint front patio is the perfect spot to enjoy one of the desert’s many sunny afternoons, iced latte and baked good in hand, of course. Be forewarned, the insanely charming Zagat-rated eatery is pricey. Il Sogno (“the dream” in Italian) is worth every penny, though.

7. Vintage Coffee House (49990 Jefferson Street, Indio) – A strip mall with a grocery store as its anchor tenant may seem an unlikely place to find some of the best java in the Coachella Valley, but that is the case with Vintage Coffee House. Known for being one of the only cafés in the area with bulletproof coffee on the menu, all of its offerings are actually fabulous. The eatery is adorable to boot and the service stellar, with some of the friendliest baristas I’ve ever encountered. Even Sylvester Stallone is a fan! Vintage is also situated in extremely close proximity to the Coachella concert grounds, so if you are in town for any of the festivals, this is the spot to grab your daily joe!

8. Koffi (515 North Palm Canyon, Palm Springs) – Java at this spot is roasted in-house, so it’s no surprise that Koffi repeatedly lands on Palm Springs Life’s “Best of the Best” list. It’s most notable feature, though, besides the stellar coffee, is the adjacent garden where you can enjoy it. The lush oasis, dotted with small tables and boasting incredible mountain views, serves as the center of The Corridor complex and is one of my favorite sites in the entire valley. Tranquil and serene, even when bustling with people, there’s no more idyllic venue to sip a cuppa and savor the city’s ever-present sun. Though Koffi has three sister locations (all worth visiting), The Corridor outpost is, obviously, the one to see.

Don’t forget to check out the other posts in My Guide to Palm Springs series about the desert’s best hotels, restaurants, bars and places to see/things to do. And, as always, for more stalking fun, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Los Angeles magazine and Discover Los Angeles.

September 13, 2019September 27, 2019

My Guide to Palm Springs – Hotels

Today’s post is loooooong overdue. For ages now, I’ve been talking about putting together a guide to Palm Springs. Having lived in the desert for over six years, regularly playing a tourist in my own town, has given me quite an insider’s knowledge of the area. Who better to share that knowledge with than my fellow stalkers? As was the case with My Guide to L.A., this list is not geared toward filming locations (though there will be a few mentioned), but will instead catalog non-filming-related recommendations of places to stay, eat, drink, grab coffee, and see/shop/play while in town. The guide also won’t be limited to Palm Springs proper but will cover most Coachella Valley cities including Palm Desert, Rancho Mirage and La Quinta. First up are my picks for the best area hotels!

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Thankfully, there is no shortage of extraordinary properties to book while visiting the desert. And I have checked in to quite a few of them during my tenure here. For the purposes of this post, I will only be listing hotels where I have actually stayed or spent considerable time. For a pricing key, I chose a random Friday in October (at the start of Palm Springs’ high season – rates are much cheaper in the summer) to base the nightly costs at my recommended lodgings. Those rates (which include all taxes and fees) are posted next to each property name and the hotels are listed in order from lowest to highest price. And now, without further ado, I present My Guide to Palm Springs Hotels!

1. Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa ($234) 44400 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells – I spent a birthday here a couple of years back with my parents and the Grim Cheaper and we all absolutely loved it! We are quite a disparate group when it comes to dietary needs and pickiness and our favorite part about the hotel was the many onsite restaurants (there are five, serving such diverse fare as pizza and sushi). During our stay, we’d meet with my parents each night in The Place, the resort’s central cocktail lounge, for an aperitif, then go our separate ways to grab takeout from whatever restaurant struck our fancy, bringing our choices back to The Place to all dine together. We spent three nights at the hotel and were never bored with our food choices once! The other amenities, including an onsite coffee bar, a spa (where I bought the softest sweatshirt), a pool with a sand beach, a massive lagoon, tennis courts, and a gym, were also bar none. All in all, a great hotel experience!

2. Miramonte Indian Wells Resort & Spa ($235) 45000 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells – A gorgeous 215-room resort spread out over 11 manicured acres. Designed to resemble a Tuscan villa, there’s no reason to leave this place after checking in. With 3 pools (one is adults-only!), a 12,000-square-foot spa, 24-hour room service, access to 2 golf courses, a restaurant, a bar, a fitness center, a fabulous gift shop, and gardens throughout, the Four Diamond-property has everything you’ll need and then some, all while retaining the feel of a boutique hotel. While the interiors and amenities are great, it is the grounds that make this spot so special. Miramonte Indian Wells truly is an oasis in the desert. And it’s a filming location, as well, having appeared on both The Real Housewives of Orange County and Flavor of Love!

3. Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort & Spa ($254) 41000 Bob Hope Drive, Rancho Mirage – Another area property with countless amenities, Omni Rancho Las Palmas features a golf course, 4 restaurants, a spa, a whopping 240 acres of land, and 3 pools, one of which, Splashtopia, is its real claim to fame. The 2-acre onsite water park is made complete with a lazy river, 2 water slides, and a man-made beach! Not something you ordinarily find at a hotel. The property also has the best gift shop I’ve ever visited! And it is situated directly across the street from The River at Rancho Mirage, a massive outdoor shopping/dining destination. Needless to say, Omni Rancho Las Palmas is another spot you never need to leave after checking in. It’s also something of a pop culture landmark! It was there that Ray Pruit (Jamie Walters) infamously pushed Donna Martin (Tori Spelling) down the stairs on Beverly Hills, 90210!

4. Hotel Paseo ($297) 45400 Larkspur Lane, Palm Desert – While this spot is obviously gorgeous, has amenities galore and countless Instagram opportunities (like the “California” wall below), Hotel Paseo really is all about location, location, location! Situated in the heart of Palm Desert’s exclusive El Paseo shopping district, the lodging is steps from countless boutiques – everything from Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and Kate Spade to Anthropologie, Banana Republic and Loft. Staples like Apple and Sephora are also there. Hotel Paseo itself features unique art, a restaurant, a pool, a pool bar, a putting green, a gym, a spa and a café that serves Starbucks coffee. Could you ask for anything more?

5. Hyatt Regency Indian Wells ($318) 44600 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells – Three words for you – adults-only pool! This spot was a favorite escape of mine and the GC in the early days of our relationship, back when I was teaching, the Oasis Adult Pool providing a much-needed respite from youngins. In a rare turn, the Oasis, which you can see a photo of here, is actually nicer than the hotel’s main pool, featuring its own bar/café, luxury cabanas, grassy expanses, a perimeter of palm trees, and stunning views. The rest of the Hyatt isn’t too shabby either, with four restaurants (in addition to the Oasis Pool Bar), a spa, a fitness center, a total of seven pools (!), a kids’ camp, pet accommodations, mountain views, lagoons, pathways, a golf course, and 45 gorgeous landscaped acres.

6. JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort & Spa ($353) 74855 Country Club Drive, Palm Desert – One of my absolute favorite area lodgings, JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort & Spa is truly a unique property, the majority of it surrounded by huge lakes which guests can tour via manned gondolas. Heading to one of the hotel’s nine (!) onsite restaurants on a boat truly is a unique experience. Though the resort is massive, with 884 rooms and 450 acres (and a Starbucks!), it still manages to be warm and friendly. Even if you don’t book a stay there, I highly recommend popping by for a visit and taking a boat tour because the JW truly is a sight to behold! And it has a major film location connection. It was there that Jessie Spano’s (Elizabeth Berkley) dad got married in the Season 3 episodes of Saved by the Bell titled “Palm Springs Weekend: Part I” and “Palm Springs Weekend: Part II.”

7. Triada Palm Springs ($353) 640 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs – This Mediterranean-style property oozes Old Hollywood charm and, in fact, has many ties to the Tinseltown of yore. Formerly The Ambassador Hotel, the lodging counts such stars as Lana Turner, Tyrone Power, Jimmy Durante, Esther Williams, Howard Hughes, Elizabeth Taylor, and Richard Burton as one-time guests. Dating back to the 1920s, the picturesque site has had several different iterations over the years, but was finally revamped by Marriott in 2014 and today is one of Palm Springs’ most fabulous destinations. It’s pretty much my family’s go-to spot for a staycation. Though it looks small from the outside, Triada is actually quite sprawling with an onsite restaurant, two bars, three pools, a gym, and 56 rooms. The hotel bills itself on being “exactly like nothing else” and it definitely delivers on that promise.

8. La Quinta Resort & Club ($374) 49499 Eisenhower Drive, La Quinta – My family and I first booked a stay at this spot in 2010 (as I blogged about here) and have since come back more times than I can count. It is one of our favorite desert locations. Though I am not a fan of the recent remodel (like at all!), the resort is still no doubt a very special, very historic place. Initially built in 1926, the Hacienda-like retreat existed before La Quinta was incorporated. In fact, the city was named after the hotel – one of only two West Coast municipalities with that claim to fame. (The other is Beverly Hills.) Long a playground for the rich and famous (Frank Capra wrote It’s a Wonderful Life there!), the property, part of the Waldorf-Astoria Collection, boasts 796 rooms, most of which are standalone casitas situated around lush courtyards with pools. The hotel is massive – featuring 23 tennis courts, 4 restaurants, 41 pools, 53 Jacuzzis, 6 boutiques, and 5 golf courses – yet it feels insanely intimate and private. The resort is a gem and truly one of a kind.

9. Two Bunch Palms ($379) 67425 Two Bunch Palms Trail, Desert Hot Springs – Situated north of the 10 Freeway in Desert Hot Springs, this one is a bit out of the way and far removed from most desert attractions, but don’t let that dissuade you from making a reservation. It is the place to stay if you truly want to get away from it all. The tucked-away oasis, which rumor has it once served as a hide-out for Al Capone, has long been a celebrity haven thanks to its remoteness, exclusivity, stunning grounds, and fabulous spa. Everyone from Julia Roberts to Neil Diamond has checked in. Boasting 70 rooms and bungalows, a grotto, two mineral pools, a lap pool, a gym, 77 acres of land (all of them lush!), a lagoon, a 3,000-square-foot yoga dome, and a farm-to-table restaurant, the wellness hotel feels more like a tropical getaway than a desert retreat. It’s also a filming location, having appeared in everything from The Bachelor to The Player, as I chronicled here.

10. The Riviera Palm Springs ($406) 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs – You want a true Palm Springs experience, you say? Head straight to The Riviera! Originally opened in 1959, the lodging, built in the shape of a spoke wheel, was the stomping ground of Old Hollywood heavies Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Desi Arnaz, Sonny Bono, Cher, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, and Elvis Presley. The property is such an area landmark, it was even featured in the 1963 comedy Palm Springs Weekend! Reimagined first in 2008 and then again in 2016, The Riviera now offers the best in modern accommodations while still retaining a retro vibe. Easily one of the prettiest spots I’ve ever visited, the hotel, all soft greens, blushes and light blues, is an Instagrammer’s dream! With 398 rooms, six restaurants (!), a central pool, a spa (with a Watsu pool), 24 acres of manicured grounds, and its close proximity to downtown Palm Springs, you won’t regret booking a stay here. (Special thanks to my friend Kim for the photo below.)

11. The Chateau at Lake La Quinta ($411) 78120 Caleo Bay Drive, La Quinta – This hidden gem (most locals don’t even know it’s there!) sits perched overlooking the 25-acre man-made Lake La Quinta. The boutique lodging is small (there are only 24 rooms), but is not short on amenities, which include an onsite restaurant, a sprawling lawn, a patio strung with lights and a fire pit, a pool, and a jacuzzi. All rooms boast a patio or balcony facing the water and guests are greeted with a glass of champagne upon checking in (yaaaaassss!). The idyllic site, voted “Best of the Best” boutique hotel in La Quinta by Palm Springs Life magazine this year, is frequently completely booked out for weddings and events (especially on weekends), so if you want to stay there, be sure to make a reservation far in advance.

12. Sands Hotel & Spa ($449) 44985 Province Way, Indian Wells – Every square inch of this hotel has been styled to within an inch of its life – but in the best way possible! Sands is, simply put, gorgeous. A relative newcomer (formerly a rather dumpy timeshare, it opened last year after a lengthy renovation and expansion), this spot has become my absolute favorite local lodging. And it definitely gets the award for the area’s most Instagrammable hotel, thanks to the efforts of designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard. Outfitted in subtle greys and greens with blush accents, Sands is #décorgoals! The quaint lodging has an onsite restaurant (The Pink Cabana – it’s gorgeous, too!), a pool, cabanas that are free for guests to utilize, daybeds, an incredible spa (it literally looks like the inside of Jeannie’s bottle!), and 46 rooms. The neighboring Nest restaurant (which is a must-visit spot – it will be included in the upcoming My Guide to Palm Springs – Restaurants post) can get a little lively at night, so if you are seeking quiet, ask to be placed far removed from the eatery.

13. Kimpton Rowan Hotel ($499) 100 West Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs) – Modern, sleek, and situated right in the heart of downtown Palm Springs there’s not much more you can ask for when it comes to area hotels. This spot was built from the ground up in 2017, with serious attention to detail. The hotel couldn’t be any more PS, with its Mid-Century modern accents, if it tried. Standing at 7 stories, it is the tallest building in the city. It offers 153 rooms, a rooftop pool and restaurant, a lobby bar, a Mediterranean café, a gym, 270-degree views of the city, free bicycle rentals, and a nightly social hour with free wine and finger foods. (Not to mention serious bookshelf goals, amirite?) If you want to channel your inner Don Draper, this is the spot to do it.

14. Avalon Hotel and Bungalows ($523/night, 2-night minimum) (415 South Belardo Road, Palm Springs) – Another boutique hotel situated steps from downtown Palm Springs, the Avalon is a designer’s dream. Initially built in 1933 as the Estrella Inn, it was given an Old Hollywood Regency-style revamp in 2001 thanks to owner/interior designer Kelly Wearstler. Favoring a yellow aesthetic, the retro vibe has been done to perfection here. Pretty and polished, the hotel is somehow also warm and inviting. One look at the plush chaises and you’ll want to plunk down and never get up. Though seemingly small, the 3.5-acre site boasts 3 pools, an on-site restaurant, a spa, gardens, thirteen bungalows, and event space. And it’s a filming location! The Avalon is where Justin Bobby famously gave longtime on-again/off-again girlfriend Audrina Patridge a ring on the Season 4 finale of The Hills.

15. Ingleside Inn ($545) 200 West Ramon Road, Palm Springs – This hotel holds a very special place in my heart. It was there that the GC and I got engaged back in 2009. Regardless of that fact, though, I would still love the Ingleside Inn. The intimate hotel is secluded, tranquil and serene. Boasting amenities like a 24-hour pool and an onsite restaurant/bar with nightly dancing, the 30-room property still manages to be a quiet little haven. As such, celebrities have flocked to it, including Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston who spent three days there following their 2000 wedding. Along with Two Bunch Palms, this is a place to truly get away from it all. Since getting engaged, the GC and I have returned to the inn on several occasions and each time counts as one of my best hotel experiences. I can’t recommend the Ingleside more.

16. Korakia Pensione ($595/night, 2-night minimum) 257 South Patencio Road, Palm Springs – This hotel is nothing short of magical! The GC and I checked into the Moroccan-themed property for a two-night visit to celebrate our anniversary a few years back and wound up staying a full week! Each morning, we woke up and decided we just didn’t want to leave. The hotel has that effect. With vistas galore, tucked-away corners, two serene pools, lantern-strewn walkways, cobbled paths and foliage aplenty, beauty is literally at every turn. Essentially a bed and breakfast, morning meals are served on the picturesque front patio and afternoon tea is offered in the charming lobby. Old movies are also shown each evening al fresco, projected onto one of the Korakia’s courtyard walls, guests lounging on nearby pillows and bean bags to watch. It was there that the GC first saw The Wizard of Oz! The pensione offers one of the most unique hotel experiences you’ll come across, not just in Palm Springs, but anywhere.

17. The Ritz-Carlton, Rancho Mirage ($610) 68900 Frank Sinatra Drive, Rancho Mirage – Newly renovated in 2014, The Ritz in Rancho Mirage is one of the desert’s premier properties. Sitting atop a 650-foot bluff, the views of the surrounding area are unparalleled – as are the service and the amenities. There are three restaurants onsite (made-to-order sushi is even served at the pool!), a spa, two swimming pools, and countless expanses overlooking the Coachella Valley. They say you get what you pay for and a stay at the Ritz is definitely a luxury experience. Though I much preferred the look of the place before the remodel, the hotel is still undeniably beautiful. And it has a ton of Tinseltown ties! Not only did Trista and Ryan from The Bachelorette tie the knot there in a televised ceremony, but everyone from Katharine McPhee to Kym Johnson to Ryan Seacrest has checked in.

18. Parker Palm Springs ($740/night, 2-night minimum) 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs – A former Holiday Inn, this spot is now one of Palm Springs’ most exclusive lodgings. The Mid-Century site is eclectic in all the right ways thanks to designer Jonathan Adler who gave the space a $27-million overhaul in 2003. Unique décor is at every turn here (the “drugs” sign in the lobby is an Instagram favorite). While vintage in theme, this is is definitely not your mom’s hotel! Featuring four pools, a lemonade stand, a golf course, a spa with 21 treatment rooms, croquet courts, two restaurants, two tennis courts, 13 shaded acres, and 144 rooms, the Parker has all of the amenities of a major resort, but still retains its intimacy. Perhaps that’s why celebs have flocked to it over the years. It was there that Brad Pitt and Angelia Jolie famously stayed – at opposite ends of the property, per their publicist – while shooting their “Domestic Bliss” cover story for W Magazine in 2005. And the Parker is also a filming location, having popped up in a Season 1 episode of The Comeback. Though the most expensive hotel on my list, I’ve literally never heard one bad thing about this place! Everyone I know who has stayed there counts it as an absolute favorite.

For those wishing to rent a private house rather than book a hotel, look no further than Oranj Palm Vacation Homes! As a surprise for my 40th birthday, my family leased a residence through the company and it was absolutely heavenly! The Aqua House (below) was well-appointed (there literally wasn’t one thing we needed that wasn’t supplied), decorated to Mid-Century Modern perfection, and completely comfortable. It was the ideal spot for our group of eight to relax, play, cook and imbibe. The rest of Oranj’s inventory is just as spectacular. The company is highly responsive and manages their properties insanely well. I couldn’t recommend them more.

Be sure to check out the other posts in My Guide to Palm Springs series about the desert’s best restaurants, coffee houses, bars and places to see/things to do. And, as always, for more stalking fun, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Los Angeles magazine and Discover Los Angeles.